Our Adventures in Ruins

While we enjoyed our stay in the National Park, it was time to slow move on. We are really working the slow camping thing, since we have time left in our Schengin Shuffle, and Albania is not a big place. Our next spot would be a bit of a surprise, but that’s why we call it adventure, right?

We made our way down the gravel road that was marked with a sign for Camp Apolonia. Sure enough, we arrived at area with marked space, each with an electric and water hook-up. We chose our space, parked, and hooked up to power.

It wasn’t long until a gentleman came along and greeted us. He showed me around to make sure I knew where everything was. Kasey had already spied the trees full of ripe yellow lemons. As I got my tour, the host loaded up my hands with lemons. For really being out in the middle of no where, the bathrooms, while the wet version, were very clean, nice and modern. A wet bath, by the way, is where the shower, sink and toilet are all in the same area, or all in one room.

So the question would be, why is it called Camp Apolonia, and why in the middle of no where? Well, actually, it is somewhere. Among the Greek-Roman Ruins of the city of Apolonia, a tribute the god, Apollo. It was about a 20 minute hike, minus our happy detours, yes, we make wrong turns while we are walking, too.

Along the way, we saw our first ruins a lower monastery.

We were first greeted at the parking lot by a guard, who was flanked with two dogs. They were not trained guard dogs, in fact, we think one was the pup of the other. They were more like guide dogs. They also took to Salsa, and the five us spent most of our time together touring the ruins.

We didn’t even tour the entire site. The sun was setting behind the mountains, and it was going to get dark. Also, some clouds were rolling in, and we know how much rain we have been caught in the last few weeks. Sure enough, some sprinkles dripped on us before we got back for dinner.

The next day, we relaxed, recovering from the 10,000 steps we had walked the day before. Showers and laundry were the order of the day. The next morning, we packed up, drained the tanks that needed it, and refilled with fresh water. The host stopped by with more lemons, and we paid him.

We would be parking the next couple of nights. Along our way, we drove along the coast, an through some tight, and interest small towns. Our first stop was not desirable, so we drove on, noticing an old submarine base as we rounded a harbor.

We were parked up on a hill, in area where shepherds moved their flocks through. The first shepherd, a woman, was not very happy. The other two groups of animals were moved through by an older man, and he didn’t seem to mind us being parked there. We were treated to an amazing sunset.

We couldn’t wait to get out of there though, as we didn’t want the scorn from the old woman and her sheep and goats. We didn’t know what was waiting on us, but it was going to be on the beach.

We made our way to the town Borst, Albania. The final kilometer or so was on a tore up, dirt road along the beach, We probably could have parked about anywhere, since everything was closed for the season. We made our way to the marked area, and settled in.

The beach is really Kasey’s place, while Rodney likes the mountains. She was unsettled by this location. As you can see from the picture, many animals are allowed to roam freely, like donkeys. That night, we were treated to cats fighting. Not a lullaby that will wisp you off into dreamland. When morning came, a bird came back to peck at the windows.

We made our way further south along a mix of coastal highway, and roads that snaked up the mountain sides. We made our way through Sarande, known as the Albania Riviera. We wouldn’t see any beach time, as the rain and poor weather prevailed.

As we pulled in, we were greeted by the host, who also boasted that he was security. Here is the foreshadowing: later that night, a couple men showed up in a car. They kept moving around the spots. There were two other campers with us. The first time we had seen other campers in a long time.

Later, one of the men knocked at our door, asking if we knew where the owners were. I didn’t, but I did have his email, so that security promise might have to be fulfilled.

Another knock, and another guy, this time wanting to borrow a cell phone charger, and get a light for left handed Marlboro. We had neither to offer.

After some more moving around, we heard talking around midnight. I confirmed in the morning with the host, that they asked them to leave because they were just down there to smoke and drink. They did want to make sure we were comfortable.

After a couple of nights, we were ready to move on. We headed more south into the town of Ksamil. The grocery we planned to stop at was closed, but their parking lot was available for the one across the street. We got just about all we needed.

The next stop was down the road, not even a kilometer to refill Holly’s diesel tank. Next stop was our place for the night, maybe.

Our first choice to stop was a dud. A rough road, and closed gates. We decided for plan B. It was down the main road, a place where tour buses stop. Well, it had been turned into a trash dump. Time for plan C.

I guess C would be for campground, because, despite wanting to park, we made our way to another paid camping spot. It is another spot where Holly is probably a bit big for it, but we made it in for the night.

It was a little weird leaving the campground in Ksamil, as the host was no where around. After an exchange on What’s App, I delivered our payment to the host’s daughter, who was in one of the apartments, also on the grounds.

With that all taken care of, we made our way through town, and back out the south end, heading closer to Greece. We were heading to the Butrint Archaeological Site. After having to move Holly to the bus parking lot, we made our way to the entrance, picking up some “guide dogs” along the way. One young male pup, would be blessing and a curse for the 2 kilometer trek around the peninsula.

These ruins were far more preserved, and the are much more impressive than Apollonia. This was obviously a bigger city back in the day, which was around the turn of time from B.C. to A.D.

We made our back to Ksamil, and stopped at the Planet Market to pick up a few more things, like dog food and water. We then continued on north, passing Riverside Campground once again. We were making our way around Lake Ksamil, as the ferry down by the national park did not look safe for a camper.

We also passed by Lake Buffi as we drove the winding road along the mountainside. Soon enough, we found our selves in Mursi, and found the parking are near Mursi Lake. Before the sun set behind the mountains, we got a visit by a couple of dogs, and then herd of goats and sheep so big, it had two shepherds.


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *