We left the industrial campground, which was surrounded by a lumber yard and other businesses, but still offered some nice views. We backtracked up the road to a bakery we had spotted earlier. We needed more bread, picked up some breakfast pastries, and some pretzels—renowned here in Bavaria, Germany. We enjoyed our breakfast in the parking lot, waiting for the crowd to thin out so it would be easier to turn Holly around and get back on the road.

We are traveling to Garmisch, Germany, home to a military wellness resort called Edelweiss and a castle that Kasey wants to visit. Initially, the next available tour was in November, which didn’t fit our schedule. Now, she’s arranging a special tour through Edelweiss. The challenge is bringing Salsa along. In the United States, there’s no question—Salsa is a service dog.

While driving, we came across a scenic vista where we decided to stop and take a few photos.

Shortly after our brief pause to take in the scenery, we crossed into Austria. We traveled several kilometers through the Austrian countryside at the foot of the Alps. Then, we reentered Germany for the final stretch of our journey, arriving in Garmisch. This town famously hosted the Winter Olympics nearly a century ago.

We drove past Edelweiss and made our first stop in town to pick up an Amazon package. As we traveled through town, we passed a school that had just let out, and we found ourselves surrounded by bicycles—ridden by kids who were juggling making plans while riding home from school.

We also decided to revise our accommodation plans. Initially, we planned to stay in a hotel parking lot, but since the cost was nearly the same as a nearby campground, we chose the campground instead. Like many German campgrounds we’ve encountered, it’s essentially a spacious parking area with electric hookups, trash disposal, and clean bathrooms. Meanwhile, Kasey kept working to secure her spot on tomorrow’s castle tour.

Kasey finally got the deal done, and we were 95 percent sure that we and Salsa could all go on the tour of the Neuschwanstein Castle. This is the castle that Walt Disney toured and was inspired to make the Magic Kingdom Castle.

Kasey finally closed the deal, and we were 95 percent confident that Salsa and we could all join the tour of Neuschwanstein Castle. This is the very castle that inspired Walt Disney to create the Magic Kingdom Castle.

We checked in for the tour and waited in the lobby for the guides and drivers to arrive. Everyone here was active military, veterans, or their families, which gave the place a warm, familiar atmosphere. Many were also discovering a passion for Salsa. A family from North Carolina sat in front of us; the mother had her 17-month-old daughter with her, while the father sat in the front seat.

The tour lasted all day, with the afternoon dedicated to exploring the castle. On the way, our first stop was at a woodcarver’s shop. The skill and artistry of these craftsmen with their knives and shaping tools were truly awe-inspiring.

About 15 minutes down the road, we stopped at a charming church and café. The church interior was adorned with gold leaf and decorated with stunning frescoes—a truly breathtaking sight. Yet, we were equally eager to try the doughnuts, which resembled crispy elephant ears. Nearby, the melodic clanging of cowbells around the cows’ necks in a nearby field created a joyful, almost musical atmosphere that lifted our spirits.

Our third and final stop would be at the base of Neuschwanstein Castle, our at least where you can do the royal things like buy tickets, eat food, and get a replica trinket to take home. The weather was starting to turn. The clouds were growing thicker, and the wind was blowing a little stronger. You could feel the moisture coming. While a thrilling bus ride took us most of the way up to the castle, we had some hiking to do, including to a bridge for a great view.

We both had to admit the tour was somewhat disappointing. We only saw the completed rooms since the King died at 41 and never finished the castle, which was meant as a tribute to Wagoner, the composer. I would have liked to see some of the unfinished rooms as well. Additionally, our guide was a bit odd, and his delivery failed to bring the story to life. On top of that, we were soaked—the weather had turned, and it was now pouring rain, gray, and growing colder.

We had hoped to take a covered carriage ride down, but the line was too long, and Salsa was spooking the horse. So, we decided to walk down the hill instead. The rain kept pouring, and our small umbrella barely kept us dry. When we reached the restaurant where the group was meeting, we found a table in the back, away from the crowd. Salsa handled the trip about as well as we did, though she looks much cuter in photos. I enjoyed a traditional German meal, my first since driving around Germany.

The tour vans were waiting just outside, so we hopped in and headed back to Edelweiss. The trip took about an hour, and since the guide didn’t have many stories to share, we chatted with a few others on the tour. Most people, like us, were exhausted from the day. My watch showed we had surpassed 10,000 steps. When we returned to Holly, we found a note on the windshield indicating that the spot was not for long-term parking. Since we were leaving anyway, I peeled the damp paper off the glass and tossed it in the trash. The note had been very polite.

When we returned, we saw that the cold weather and precipitation had blanketed the mountains visible from the campground with even more snow. The three of us were utterly exhausted—that doesn’t even begin to describe it. On top of that, it looked like a cold, rainy night was ahead, so sleep would come easily. Usually, Salsa starts on the floor, moves to her bed, and then joins us. Tonight, she was the first to settle into our bed.

The next morning, we woke up still feeling a bit sluggish. For breakfast, we enjoyed a Cinnamon Roll and an Apple Fritter leftover from yesterday’s bakery run. After packing up, we filled the water tank and emptied the wastewater and toilet cassette. While Kasey was holding down the water button, the hose suddenly popped out of the side of the camper. Did she stop pressing the button? Nope—she kept it pressed as the hose flailed around, occasionally squirting me! Looks like we’re off to a lively start this morning! We want to make sure everything is topped off as we prepare to travel through and eventually over the Alps in the next few days.